I arrive in Granada on Saturday just after 5pm and find myself in the “Parque Central” where I start looking for my LP. A guy walks over and asks me what I am doing here and gives me the direction for my hostel “Oasis”. I find the location easily based on his description and check into the dorm. The room is pretty dark but has enough fans even so that its cool enough. Outside some people are already having a party going and sound like they have been drinking for quite a while. I am still groggy from 2 days of partying in Leon and the worst that could happen tonight is that I don’t get to sleep because of some wild partying outside the dorm. I leave my stuff behind and go into the centre. Granada is widely compared with Antigua, but the first impression I get is very negative especially compared to my great experience in Leon. Here I feel the eyes of the Nicas on me as if I am being checked out. Rajni has told me about a restaurant where she had a great filet mignon and since it is late enough I am up for a delicious dinner! I follow the stream of tourists, pass the cathedral, and find the street with all the restaurants and bars. Walking around on my own makes me realize how lonely I am once again. Last night I have been partying with my friends from the Lodge who I enjoyed the company with for the last two weeks and now I am in a new town on my own. I find the restaurant very easily but decide to go down the road just to see what it has to offer. On my way I see a Japanese guy who I met in Leon. He is travelling around Latin America selling hand-made jewellery. I decide to sit down and have a chat with him to fight my loneliness. His name is Toshi, a hairdresser who was fed up with the crazy work load in Japan and decided to go travelling. When, after a year, he began to run out of money he learnt how to make jewellery and live of the money he made with it while travelling America. I ask him when he is planning to go home and he responds “Maybe in 2 years”. But this maybe tells me that he has no intention of going back. And rightly so, in Japan he would be working 60 hours per week with 2 weeks of holidays a year to look forward to. Here he is free, can do what he want, travel where he want and socialize with people he himself can chose. Freedom is something only a few extremely rich people can buy and the rest of us have to decide what we want from life and live towards it. Life is all about choices!
I order my filet mignon and a glass of red wine. The weather is perfect to sit on the terrace and I try to remember when I had the last time a meal in a restaurant outside (last year in Portugal). The streets are full with tourists and artists who perform in front of a restaurant and then move on when they ask their viewers for a little contribution. The conversation with Toshi helped me a little to come out of mine down but I am still in need for more. Across my table a painter sits alone waiting for customers. I decide to finish my meal and join him for a drink. When I come over to his table he friendly invites me to sit down with him. His name is Hektor, 27, from Managua. He looks much older than his age and his face has two big scars. He looks like a guy who has a story to tell and after a bit of small talk he tells me that he has been a crack user for 9 years and only 2 years ago escaped the addiction. Painting has helped him to get out of the mud he has been sinking in since the age of 16 and now he wants to give it a chance hoping that one day he can have a normal life. I ask him why he became addicted and especially on such a strong drug. Hektor tells me that he was depressed with the life in Nicaragua and the lack of opportunities people have here. Later on he tells me that the scars on his face are from a guy who tried to kill him because he slept with his wife. But he thanks God that he is still alive. When I finish my glass I take off and call it a day.
The next morning, after a few coffees, I take my cam and walk out to get lost in Granada and find all the beautiful places by accident. Granada is certainly a beautiful colonial town but after spending so much time in Antigua I am biased and cannot see here anything original. After a few hours walk I meet the guy from the first day in the park and sit down next to him to have a chat. By now the loneliness has left me, just like I am used to, but I am up for a conversation with a local. Miguel tells me a little about his country and how he hopes that the recent government will lose the next election. Since Ortega has taken over, he tells me, the tourist industry has started to decrease and the proposals and laws introduced by the government have made Nicaragua only poorer. Later he offers me a guided tour through the town and I am happy to go with him since there is nothing false in this guy. He is doing a good job and at the end of our tour I am more than happy to give him C$100, slightly more than €3. Miguel explains that most architectural sights have been rebuilt with the support of the Spanish government. I guess that is the debt they pay off from the time when their colonialist regime destroyed this part of the world and stole all their resources while killing most of the indigenous population, so that none of the Latin American countries has recovered from it until now.
Climbing the Conception
On Monday I take the ferry to Isla de Ometepe which is on the Lake of Nicaragua, the biggest lake in Central America. Before the ferry leaves at 2 pm I still have to do some things in Granada. My universal charger that I bought in La Ceiba is already not working and I need to get a new one. Also, I need to find a post office to send a postcard to my school friend Mario. He is collecting postcards from all over the world and I promised to send him cards from every country I will be travelling to. This morning I am in brilliant mood and rush with a big smile through the streets of Granada. I get everything done and go back to the hostel. A huge rain shower starts just before I get there and I get soaked before I reach the hostel. James, an Australian who is going the same way, and I wait till the rain slows down and go on the street to catch a cab. It takes us a while and before a local stops a cab for us which brings us to the port. We check in and have lunch. James was one of the guys who were drinking Rum on Saturday from 11am but when we start our conversation I find out that there is much more to this guy than I first thought. He just finished his Master in Social Aid and his knowledge about what is going on in the different parts in the world is pretty amazing! He is the first person I meet who is pro Chauvez and he tells me how much he achieved over the decade he is in charge (eg. reducing poverty by 30%). The reason behind his support for Chauvez is that James is in his political view a communist. An Australian with communistic view – not something you meet everyday J He tells me more about his work and especially his adventures and since he has been in South America a few time he gives me some extremely good sounding recommendations. James is someone who would always try to travel of the beaten track. He is 1 of the 150 people who would cross the border from Panama to Colombia through the jungle which is controlled by the guerrilla. So I believe that a tip from him will lead me to a real adventure!
On Monday I take the ferry to Isla de Ometepe which is on the Lake of Nicaragua, the biggest lake in Central America. Before the ferry leaves at 2 pm I still have to do some things in Granada. My universal charger that I bought in La Ceiba is already not working and I need to get a new one. Also, I need to find a post office to send a postcard to my school friend Mario. He is collecting postcards from all over the world and I promised to send him cards from every country I will be travelling to. This morning I am in brilliant mood and rush with a big smile through the streets of Granada. I get everything done and go back to the hostel. A huge rain shower starts just before I get there and I get soaked before I reach the hostel. James, an Australian who is going the same way, and I wait till the rain slows down and go on the street to catch a cab. It takes us a while and before a local stops a cab for us which brings us to the port. We check in and have lunch. James was one of the guys who were drinking Rum on Saturday from 11am but when we start our conversation I find out that there is much more to this guy than I first thought. He just finished his Master in Social Aid and his knowledge about what is going on in the different parts in the world is pretty amazing! He is the first person I meet who is pro Chauvez and he tells me how much he achieved over the decade he is in charge (eg. reducing poverty by 30%). The reason behind his support for Chauvez is that James is in his political view a communist. An Australian with communistic view – not something you meet everyday J He tells me more about his work and especially his adventures and since he has been in South America a few time he gives me some extremely good sounding recommendations. James is someone who would always try to travel of the beaten track. He is 1 of the 150 people who would cross the border from Panama to Colombia through the jungle which is controlled by the guerrilla. So I believe that a tip from him will lead me to a real adventure!
Isla de Omepete has been created by 2 Volcanoes – Conception and Maderas. I want to climb the Conception (1610m) and hope that I will have a better view this time than on the San Pedro. We get to the island at around 6pm and already on board have locals offering us a place to stay at a hotel. But once of the board I am attacked by even more annoying idiots who try to get me a good deal. I cant stand this kind of behaviour and try to get away from them. We get on a pick up and drive to Altagracia, the second biggest village on the island. We chose Hotel Costillo and check in in a dorm which is pretty crappy but since we are alone its just fine. Downstairs a guide is trying to sell us a tour to the Conception for $25. I tell him I have spoken to a guide on the boat and he offed me the hike for $10. The little Nica tries to tell me that it is not true and the price would be $25 but after we tell we will look around and come back later he goes down with the price to $15. An English guy, Lorray, has joined us since he was going to do the hike as well and the three of us tell the Nica that he will have $30 if we all three go for $10 each. He gives up and accepts but asks us to pay the half in advance which we do. However, a few minutes later he comes back telling us that his guide who will go with us has told him we could not get to the top due to too much gases and we would only make it to 1200m. I tell him that this is fine but we will not pay the full price in that case. He is pissed off by that and tells me that in that case we cannot go. I say “Fine. Then give me the money!” Now he is even more pissed off but hands me over the money and shuts up. James, Lorray and I sit down next door to have dinner and wait for another guide to come along and tell us what will be the deal. In the meantime the guide who was going to bring us up tells Lorray that now it is possible to go up to the top. The different information annoy us and right now we just wanna eat and have a chat. But if he hadn’t told us already enough rubbish this little sleazy peace of shit comes back to our table and tries to tell us that it was all not his fault. I only tell him to piss off in a very polite manner ;) and he explodes and tells us that we have to leave his hotel the next morning. How nice of him! We take our time to finish our dinner and return to the hotel to pick up our staff and move to another place. Before we do that we find out who actually owns the hotel and I tell the owner what this guy was doing and telling to their guest. I tell him that I have never in my life experienced such a bad behaviour from a hotel towards their customers and that I will post this story on a few websites to make other travellers aware. The 2 brothers listen quietly to my words, apologize for the misbehaviour of the guy, tell us that he is not employed here and only works on provision (as if that makes a difference). But at the end of the day you can see in their faces that there are not gonna do anything about it. Just like the Canadian told me, the Nicas have no guts and would never confront anyone. We change the hotel and have a few beers and a laugh about this idiot before we go to bed.
At 5.30am we get up to do the hike. There is no way for me to get a coffee before we leave and I feel that my body is not up for the hike. My blood pressure is low and I have a slight head ache. 1610m doesn’t sound too hard but it always depends on from which level you start hiking. We begin our hike at sea level which means we have to go all the way. The first few hundred meters lead us through a jungle. Its early in the morning and we can hear the nature awake, a scenario comparable with one I have experienced in the jungle in Guatemala. James is moving much slower than us because of his knee problems and we have to wait quite often. When the get out of the wood we get to see an amazing view on the lake and the other volcano – one of those mesmerizing moments. Since the trees are gone we are exposed to the brutal sun and all start sweating like waterfalls. This makes my situation even worse and I wonder if I will make it to our point. The way becomes more difficult as well. We have to walk on sharp and uneven rocks. Slipping down here would mean pain at best and fractures at worst. At the end we get to our mirador and look for a place on the rocks I can lie on and pass out while the other guys enjoy the spectacular view. I don’t know how long I am lying but someone says we should head back and I get back to life. I still have a head ache but the rest was just what I needed. The way back is as bad as up and I slip down the rocks a few times but stay unscratched. When we are back in the village I buy a Red Bull and order a coffee and my body starts to feel normal again…serious caffeine addict! ;)
InanItah
At 2pm we take a bus to Santa Cruz and walk another 3 km to get to a place called InanItah. James met a girl called Kelly in Granada and she told him about this spiritual community that have built their home on the volcano Maderas and since I have no other plans I join him. We are heartily welcomed and after we leave our stuff in our sleeping place we are shown around. The owners Paul and Gaia have built a self sustaining place with solar energy supply and gardens full with fresh vegetables and fruits. Since the place is still very new (less than a year) they still rely on supply from the neighbourhood but that should soon end when all the projects are accomplished. The place they have chosen is gigantic (20 akres) and magic. From here we have a perfect view on the Conception and the Lake Nicaragua. Everyone here is for the long run. Most of the people are travellers who volunteer in order to stay for free. Unlike us they came here knowing what to expect and knowing that they belong here to this hippie community. For me this is the first time I stay in such a place and I am not sure what to make out of it. On one side it is very interesting to see how people manage to live with only the basics but I cant see myself living a life like this. After a delicious dinner with the group I go early to bed which for the next two days is a hammock. After my night on the ocean its the second time I sleep in a hammock and, unlike many people who love it, I dont get to sleep very well. The place where our hammocks are hanging is a wooden construct with only a roof to protect us from the rain and nothing else. At night I wake up a couple of times because I am freezing but since I left my sleeping bad behind in Guatemala there is not much what I can do about it.
At 2pm we take a bus to Santa Cruz and walk another 3 km to get to a place called InanItah. James met a girl called Kelly in Granada and she told him about this spiritual community that have built their home on the volcano Maderas and since I have no other plans I join him. We are heartily welcomed and after we leave our stuff in our sleeping place we are shown around. The owners Paul and Gaia have built a self sustaining place with solar energy supply and gardens full with fresh vegetables and fruits. Since the place is still very new (less than a year) they still rely on supply from the neighbourhood but that should soon end when all the projects are accomplished. The place they have chosen is gigantic (20 akres) and magic. From here we have a perfect view on the Conception and the Lake Nicaragua. Everyone here is for the long run. Most of the people are travellers who volunteer in order to stay for free. Unlike us they came here knowing what to expect and knowing that they belong here to this hippie community. For me this is the first time I stay in such a place and I am not sure what to make out of it. On one side it is very interesting to see how people manage to live with only the basics but I cant see myself living a life like this. After a delicious dinner with the group I go early to bed which for the next two days is a hammock. After my night on the ocean its the second time I sleep in a hammock and, unlike many people who love it, I dont get to sleep very well. The place where our hammocks are hanging is a wooden construct with only a roof to protect us from the rain and nothing else. At night I wake up a couple of times because I am freezing but since I left my sleeping bad behind in Guatemala there is not much what I can do about it.
After that night I speak to James and we are ready to leave the place after one night but decide against it since this night is full moon and the community will held a special celebration called “The harvest moon”. I spend the day chilling and reading until the event takes place just before sunset. We are all cleaned with sage smoke before we take a Pithaya plant and walk to a place in front of the lounge. We step into the circle and each of us tells something he wants to leave behind and what he would like to begin with before he/she plants the Pithaya. At first I dont make much of the ceremony but once I am in the circle I do feel something special going on here. I speak my words, which come from my heart and then listen to the others while I lose myself in the amazing sunset. When all have spoken and planted the Pithaya we look each one of us in the eyes before the ceremony finishes with warm hugs. Quite special I have to say to experience something like this with strangers but at the end of the day when it comes down to the basics we are all just human beings with a soul and a heart. After dinner we have a party and in order to warm up play a game in which 4 people build a group. One person has to step into the middle and close the eyes. When the music starts the person in the middle has to start to float from one side to the other while the other three build a circle and push the person in the middle around. It is a very intense experience since you have to trust the others that they will catch you while you are floating from one side to the other. After this little game the party begins and for a few hours we dance to the sound of trance music.
Leaving Nicaragua
The next morning I pack my stuff and leave. James has decided to stay here since he had a 2 very special revelations during our time here and wants to continue with his emotional break-though. I wish him all the best and leave. I would have loved to be in his position but I know that I cannot stay here since my heart is already in Colombia. I miss the bus to Altagracia by 15 minutes and decide to walk the 10 km. After 2 hours I reach the hotel where my 2 backpacks are and rest for a few hours before I take a car to the port. While I am waiting for the car I am counting my money and realize that I will definitely be short. Unfortunately, the only ATM is a few hours away and I have no chance to get the money before the ferry leaves. I have no other chance than ask some fellow travellers for money which means that I have to beg. Luckily a German couple is in the same car to the port and when we are at the cashier I approach the woman and explain her my situation. Without any resistance she hands me 100 Cordoba’s and I can pay my luggage fee. After that I sit down with them and we start chatting. Heidi and Mirko, both in their 50s, travel for 5 month through Central and South America and its the first big journey for them just like it is for me. Heidi and I exchange our cultural experiences in Nicaragua. We continue our chat on deck until its time to sleep. I put my mattress on the floor and try to sleep which doesnt really happen. For the third night in the row I am having an uncomfortable night especially when the rain starts and soaks the deck. I find a free bench in the cabin but that doenst give me any more comfort. At around 6 am we reach San Carlos and I have to wait for another 2 hours before I finally can withdraw money and buy something to eat. Heidi and Mirko have left me without asking for the money I owe them and I spend the time under a roof of a shop ( it is raining) contemplating. At 10 am I get on the boat to Los Chiles, Costa Rica and after a 2 hour journey on the Rio Frio I am in the next country. Costa Rica for me is only a transit to go to Panama City and so I wait a few hours for my bus to San Jose where I change my bus to Panama City. At 11 pm the Tika bus leaves San Jose and hour long journey begins. I dont get to sleep another night since behind me a Korean guy snores like a feral pig or maybe even worse. Its sooo bad that I even consider to shut him up in all possible ways you would imagine!
At 5 am we reach the border and have to wait an hour until the migration office opens. Then it takes only minutes to leave Costa Rica but another 2 hours to get in to Panama. To me it totally makes sense that the border police checks the passengers from Panama to Costa Rica very carefully due to the cocaine from Colombia. But I see absolutely no reason why this should be the same for us since nobody will bring drugs from Costa Rica to Panama. However, as if this careful and annoying procedure is not enough I am told to buy a ticket that shows that I will leave Panama. I dont mind to pay customs tax when crossing borders but this is just a rip off and it is really annoying to say it in a polite way. Since there is no point in arguing I pay $35 for a return ticket to San Jose and pass the border control. It takes us another 8 hours to get to Panama City – a long way on a excellent motorway but with almost nothing to see except green landscapes.
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